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What types of mini split indoor units are there?

The four kinds of indoor unit, what each asks of the room and the structure around it, and how to pick one for a plaster wall, a radiator bay or a basement ceiling.

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The short answer

There are four main types. Wall-mounted heads are the most common and simplest. Floor consoles sit low, often where a radiator stood. Ceiling cassettes recess into the ceiling and blow in four directions. Concealed ducted units hide in a closet, attic or soffit and feed grilles through short ducts.

Front parlor of a DC row house with a white floor-console mini split set low beneath a tall window where a radiator once stood

The outdoor unit decides capacity; the indoor unit decides how the room looks and how air moves through it. Roomwise DC Mini Splits plans every head type around the room it serves, and this guide shows where each one fits in an older DC house.

The four types at a glance

Each type moves air from a different spot in the room. That spot changes how the room heats and cools, where the drain goes, and how easy the unit is to clean.

Wall head Floor console Ceiling cassette Concealed ducted
Where it sits High on a wall Low on a wall Recessed in the ceiling Closet, attic or soffit
Air throw Across the room from above Up the wall from below Out in four directions Through grilles, one or more rooms
What you see The whole head The whole console A square grille panel Supply and return grilles
Drain Gravity or a pump Gravity, easiest of the four Built-in pump on many models Gravity or a pump, at the unit
Space needed A clear wall above head height A clear wall below a window Depth above the ceiling A closet, attic or ceiling cavity
Install cost Lowest Higher Higher Highest

Wall-mounted heads

A wall head is the default for most rooms. It mounts on a plate high on the wall, and its line set leaves through a hole behind it.

Where it works best

  • On an outside wall, so the lines pass straight through to the outdoor unit
  • High enough to throw air across the room, with the clearance the manufacturer’s manual sets above it
  • Facing the room’s open space, not a bed or a desk

Where it struggles

  • Long, narrow rooms, where air falls short before the far end
  • Rooms with no clear wall above window height, which describes some parlors with tall windows and deep crown molding

Our single-zone installation page shows how a wall head is mounted.

Floor consoles

A floor console sits low on the wall, a few inches above the floor. Warm air comes out near your feet and rises, which suits heating.

Where it works best

  • Under a tall window, where a radiator once stood
  • Top-floor rooms with sloped ceilings, where there’s no high wall for a head
  • Rooms where heat matters most, such as a cold rear bedroom

The drain falls easily from a console, since it sits low on an outside wall. The trade-off is floor space and a unit at furniture height, which can’t sit behind a sofa.

Ceiling cassettes

A cassette recesses into the ceiling, leaving a square grille that blows air in four directions. It spreads air evenly in a large or open room.

What it asks of the house

  • Depth above the ceiling and a framing bay that can carry it
  • A drain plan, since water forms above the room; many cassettes carry a built-in pump
  • Access for cleaning, through the grille, which means a ladder

Cassettes suit basement ceilings, kitchens and open living areas. The ceiling cassette installation page covers the work in detail.

Concealed ducted units

A concealed ducted unit, sometimes called a slim duct unit, hides in a closet, attic, soffit or ceiling. Short ducts carry air to grilles in one room or a few small rooms.

Strengths and trade-offs

  • Nothing visible but the grilles
  • Several small rooms can share one unit, which helps where a head in each would be too big
  • All rooms on the unit share one setting
  • The filter needs an access panel, and someone has to open it every few weeks in season

The ducted mini split installation page covers where these fit, and the ducted vs ductless guide compares them with central systems.

Mixing types on one system

A multi-zone outdoor unit can run different kinds of heads, if the manufacturer lists that combination. A wall head in a bedroom, a console in the parlor and a cassette in the basement can share one outdoor unit.

Each head is still sized to its own room. The sizing guide explains how, and the zones guide helps count how many you need.

Controls for every type

Every type comes with a handheld remote. Most can also take a wired wall thermostat or a Wi-Fi controller.

Choosing a control

  • Handheld remote: included, simple, easy to lose
  • Wired wall control: a fixed spot, good for ducted units and cassettes out of reach
  • Wi-Fi controller: lets you set rooms from your phone, useful for a basement apartment or a room you rarely visit

Whatever the type, the compressor is an inverter. It slows down to match the room instead of switching on and off, which keeps the temperature steady.

How the type changes the price

Wall heads cost least to install. Consoles, cassettes and concealed ducted units cost more, for ceiling or floor work, drain pumps, ductwork and access panels.

Your price comes from the site visit and a written estimate. The DC cost guide explains what moves it, and the condensate drain guide covers drain options for each type.

Questions about this guide

Which indoor unit is the least noticeable?

A concealed ducted unit, since only a grille shows in the room. A ceiling cassette is next, flush with the ceiling apart from its grille panel. Both need space above the ceiling or in a closet. Where that space doesn't exist, a floor console tucked under a window draws less attention than a wall head.

Can a floor console go where my radiator is now?

Often, yes. A console is sized to sit low on an outside wall, and the spot under a window where a radiator stood suits it well. The radiator has to be removed and its pipes capped, so we plan that with the rest of the heating before choosing the console.

Does a ceiling cassette need an attic above it?

Not an attic, but enough depth between the ceiling and the floor or roof above, plus a framing bay that can take the unit. Basement ceilings and dropped ceilings often have room. A plaster ceiling under a finished floor may not, which we check before recommending one.

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